Rondane National Park

Rondane National Park
IUCN Category II ( National Park)
Rondane National Park
A path in a u-valley, in summer
A path in a u-valley, in summer
Location: Hedmark and Oppland, Norway
Nearest city: Otta
Coordinates: 61°50′″N, 9°30′″E
Area: 963 km²
(238,000 acres)
Established: December 21, 1962
Visitation: (in )
Governing body: Directorate for Nature Management

Rondane National Park ( Norwegian: Rondane nasjonalpark) is the oldest national park in Norway, established on December 21, 1962. The park contains a number of peaks above 2000 metres (6560 feet), with the highest being Rondslottet at an altitude of 2178 metres (7146 feet). The park is an important habitat for herds of wild reindeer.

The park was extended in 2003, and now covers an area of 963 km² (372 mi²) in the counties Oppland and Hedmark. Rondane lies just to the east of Gudbrandsdal and two other mountain areas, Dovre and Jotunheimen are nearby.

Geography

Rondane is a typical high mountain area, with large plateaus and a total of ten peaks above 2000 metres (6560 feet). The highest point is Rondslottet ("The Rondane Castle") at an altitude of 2178 metres (7146 feet). The lowest point is just below the tree-line, which is approximately 1000 to 1100 metres (about 3300 to 3600 feet) above sea level. The climate is mild but relatively arid. Apart from the White Birch trees of the lower areas, the soil and rocks are covered by heather and lichen, since they lack nutrients. The largest mountains are almost entirely barren; above 1500 metres (5000 feet) nothing but the hardiest lichens grow on the bare stones.

The mountains are divided by marked valleys through the landscape; the deepest valley is filled by Rondvatnet, a narrow lake filling the steep space between the large Storronden-Rondslottet part and Smiubelgen ("The Forge"). The central massif is also cut by "botns": flat, dead stone valleys below the steep mountain walls of the peaks. Generally, Rondane does not receive enough precipitation to generate persistent glaciers, but glacier-like heaps of snow can be found in the flat back valleys.

The centre of the Park is the Rondvatnet lake, from which all the peaks beyond 2000 metres (6560 feet) of altitude can be reached in less than one day's walk. In this central region and north of it, the altitude is quite high compared with the flatter plateaus of the south. The top peaks are Rondslottet (2178 m; 7145 ft), Storronden (2138 m; 7014 ft) and Høgronden (2118 m; 6949 ft).

In many parts of the park, there are spread-out holes ( kettle holes) created by small remains of ice age glaciers, and peculiar small hills called " eskers" made by ground moraine released by melting glaciers.

The peaks of Rondane, seen from the south. Storronden and Rondslottet are the first two on the right. The left part of the massif is Smiubelgen ("The Forge").
The peaks of Rondane, seen from the south. Storronden and Rondslottet are the first two on the right. The left part of the massif is Smiubelgen ("The Forge").

History

Prehistory

The history of life in the area of the Park begins at the end of the latest ice age. Large climate changes allowed reindeer to spread widely across Scandinavia, only to be forced back to a much smaller area — including the Rondane mountain area — only some hundreds of years later. Archaeologists have found that the forest quickly grew at high altitudes; birch trees found at 1030 metres (3379 feet) were 8500 years old.

On the mountain plateaux, there is evidence that nomadic hunter-gatherers lived off reindeer. Large traps used to catch reindeer can be found at Gravhø and Bløyvangen and are also spread all throughout the park. These are constructed from stone to make holes or large fenced-in areas into which reindeer could be tricked or led.

In conjunction with these large traps, there are also small arched stone walls which are believed to have been used as hiding places for archers waiting for prey. Various dating methods have suggested that the earliest traps may be as old as 3500 years. Most of the findings, including remains of houses, date back to the years between 500 and 700 CE. It is thus known with confidence that the large traps and accompanying walls were used from the 6th century until the onset of the Black Death in the 14th century.

Establishment

Smiubelgen
Smiubelgen

After nearly a decade of planning, Rondane was established as the first Norwegian National Park on December 21, 1962. It was first established as a nature protection area, but was later named a national park. The main reasons for protecting the park were "to safeguard the natural environment with its native plants, animal life, and cultural heritage and also to secure the environment as a recreational area for future generations".;

Legal efforts to protect nature in Norway date from 1954, when the Nature protection law was passed. Soon after, in 1955, community meetings were held in the municipalities close to Rondane, and a commission was founded. Norman Heitkøtter was president of the commission, and made it possible by Royal resolution to establish Rondane National Park. At its establishment, the Park covered an area of 580 km² (224 mi²).

Although Rondane was the first national park in Norway, many others followed. The parks are maintained by the Norwegian Directorate for Nature Management.

2003 expansion

As a special measure for the protection of the wild reindeer, the park was significantly enlarged in 2003, its area increasing from 580 to 963 km² (224 to 372 mi²). The park was enlarged mainly to the north-west, and slightly in the east and south. In addition, areas with lesser protection (landscape protection as well as nature protection areas) were established in connection with the park. A new national park, Dovre National Park, between Rondane and Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park was also opened. Following the expansion, it is now only approximately 1 kilometre from the northern border of Rondane to the southern border of Dovre National Park, and large sections of adjacent mountain areas are protected by the three parks.

Geology

Geology in Rondane; the rock shows signs of sedimentation.
Geology in Rondane; the rock shows signs of sedimentation.

The bedrock in Rondane comes from a shallow sea floor, created 500 to 600 million years ago. From this, changes in the Earth's crust created a mountain area of metamorphic rock and quartz. There are no fossils found in Rondane today and so it is thought the sea where the rock came from contained no animal life.

The present landscape was mostly formed by the most recent ice age, nine to ten thousand years ago. At that time large quantities of ice were formed, and it is believed that the ice melted gradually in shifting cycles of melting and ice accumulation. The ice melting must have been rapid when it happened, digging deep river valleys.

Rondane contains a few small canyons which were created by the rapid ice melting, most prominently Jutulhogget and Vesle-Ula.

Biology

Rondane is one of the few places in Scandinavia and Europe where wild reindeer (as opposed to the domestic breed) are found. The Directorate for Nature Management regards Rondane as "especially important as a life supporting area for the native reindeer". It is estimated that approximately 2000 to 4000 reindeer live in Rondane and the nearby Dovre area. To protect the reindeer population in their core area, during the last ten years hiking trails have been moved. The park was also enlarged in 2003 to provide increased protection for the reindeer.

Other large game, including roe deer and elk (moose) are commonplace along the rims of the park and occasionally musk ox from Dovre can be seen. Wolverines and a small population of bears are also present, while wolves are rare.

The reindeer largely rely on the lichen and reindeer moss that grow together with heather and hardy grass on the quite arid and nutrient-poor stony plateaus. The lichen provide food for the reindeer, but also fertilize the earth, making it possible for less hardy plants to grow, and mice and lemmings to feed. One of the flower species to survive very well is the Glacier Crowfoot, found up to 1700 metres (5580 feet).

Tourism

Red T-markings show the way on marked trails.
Red T-markings show the way on marked trails.

Visitors to Rondane are free to hike and camp in all areas of the park, except in the immediate vicinity of cabins. Apart from being closed for motor traffic, not many special regulations apply. Fishing and hunting is available to licensees.

The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association (DNT) is an association that owns and manages a network of mountain cabins in the service of hikers. In Rondane, there is a central cabin by the southern end of the lake Rondvatnet, Rondvassbu. There is also Dørålseter and Bjørnhollia at the northern and eastern rims of the park. All three cabins are manned, and provide food and limited accommodation (possible to book beforehand). There are also un-manned cabins in the Park, like Eldåbu where a key is needed.

DNT also mark trails in the Park, with red Ts that are easy to spot. The T-trails lead the way cabin-to-cabin, as well as marking the path to some of the peaks close to Rondvatnet. Recently, some of the trails have moved slightly to avoid the core areas of the wild reindeer.

The service cabins are also open during the winter season, although they are sometimes only self-serviced off season. Ski trails are marked and sometimes prepared, either by DNT or some of the hotels and skiing resorts close to the park.

Rondane in literature

Skiing in Rondane in winter
Skiing in Rondane in winter

The landscapes of Rondane have inspired many Norwegian writers. Probably the best-known work is Peer Gynt ( 1867), a play by Henrik Ibsen, which is partly set in Rondane:

With this, Ibsen wrote Rondane into one of the best of dramas of the 19th century and made Rondane a symbol for the natural beauty of Norway.

Peter Christen Asbjørnsen, writer and gatherer of Norwegian folk tales in the mid-19th century, collected many stories connected with Rondane, including Peer Gynt, the story that inspired Ibsen. A third writer who set one of his famous works in Rondane is the poet Aasmund Olavsson Vinje with his poem No ser eg atter slike Fjell og Dalar.